The Times' best recipes of 2008
The Food Staff
December 31, 2008
A recipe has to travel a long road to make it into the Food section, and that's why there's almost always something cooking in The Times' Test Kitchen. It might be a recipe in development being tasted and tweaked, tested and re-tested to get it right. It might be a nearly finished recipe being put through its final paces just to make sure the instructions are as clear as can be. Or it might be a finished dish being primped and powdered, made ready for its close-up moment in the photo studio.
At a conservative estimate, the Test Kitchen staff follows this process for more than 200 recipes every year. With a bar set so high, we have to believe that -- like the children of Lake Wobegon -- all the recipes are above average. But still, objective tasters all, we have to acknowledge that some are more above average than others. Every year around holiday time a note goes out to staff members, asking for their nominations for the best recipes of the year. Thus ensues a flurry of paper-shuffling and e-mails and when everything is tallied -- almost everyone has chosen something different. Whether this speaks to the uniform excellence of the recipes or to our diverse palates, who knows? Most likely, it's a combination. And when you look down the list of this year's top 10, you can easily understand how this might happen.
Want something exotic? How about Noelle Carter's pumpkin seed stuffing spiced with Spanish chorizo. Want something homey? You've gotta try Donna Deane's midnight chocolate brownie bites. In the mood for a project? The panforte from the "Tartine" cookbook will take several hours to prepare but will repay that effort with an utterly spectacular Italian fruitcake. If, on the other hand, you just want something great for dinner, Russ Parsons' halibut and shimeji mushrooms comes together like a breeze. Something for everybody -- that's what we aim for in the Food section -- and thanks to the Test Kitchen, all of it as good as we can make it.
Recipe: Halibut and shimeji baked in parchment
October 1, 2008
Some exotic mushrooms may be becoming commonplace. A San Diego company is opening a plant this spring that will more than triple the total U.S. output of king trumpet, shimeji and maitake mushrooms within just a couple of years. Just as portobellos came out of nowhere to become supermarket staples in the 1990s, so might these flavorful Japanese mushrooms find their own place on the American table. This recipe by Food editor Russ Parsons is a perfect way to show off the delicate flavor and graceful shape of the shimeji. And it couldn't be simpler to make. Cook the mushrooms, wrap them in a parchment-paper pouch with halibut and bake -- that's all there is to it. Even better, you can prepare the packets in advance and refrigerate them until you're ready to cook. If you don't have parchment, you can use aluminum foil.
Total time: 40 minutes
Servings: 6 to 8
Note: Shimeji mushrooms are generally available at Asian markets.
Canola or vegetable oil
1/2 pound brown or white shimeji mushrooms, tough base removed (leave stems on), and broken into sections
Salt
2 teaspoons minced shallots
1 teaspoon minced tarragon
1/4 cup white wine
Freshly ground black pepper
2 (1-pound) halibut steaks
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut 2 (15-inch-square) pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil and lightly oil one side.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the mushrooms, three-fourths teaspoon salt and cook, tossing frequently, until the mushrooms start to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. They'll begin to sizzle and shine as they release their moisture.
3. Add the shallots, tarragon and white wine, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the wine evaporates, about 2 minutes. The mushrooms should be tender and lightly browned in places. Season with just a dash of black pepper.
4. Lightly season each halibut steak with three-eighths teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Place a steak in the center of each piece of parchment paper and spoon the mushrooms evenly over the steaks. Crinkle together the edges of the parchment paper to make an airtight packet, with some room left for the packet to expand. Place the packets on a baking sheet. (The recipe can be made to this point several hours in advance and refrigerated until ready to cook.)
5. Bake the packets until they puff slightly, 25 to 30 minutes (you may need to unwrap the packets a little to make sure the halibut is firm and opaque). Remove from the oven and place the packets, still sealed, on a platter. To serve, open the packets and divide the halibut and mushrooms onto plates.
Each of 8 servings: 152 calories; 25 grams protein; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 4 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 36 mg. cholesterol; 390 mg. sodium.
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